Jemaa el-Fna, the great free evening show
The most Marrakchi evening costs next to nothing: it happens on Jemaa el-Fna square. In the late afternoon, the numbered food stalls set up in the middle of the square, the grills are lit and the crowds arrive, mostly Moroccan families. The bustle goes on late into the night, every evening of the year.
Dinner at the stalls
Skewers, fried fish, harira, snails, merguez, sheep's head: each stall has its speciality, and people eat side by side on benches. Expect to pay 40 to 80 MAD per person for a full meal. The touts are pushy: pick a stall that displays its prices, confirm the price of each dish as you order and refuse any bread, olives or sauces you did not ask for, which otherwise end up on the bill. Our guide what to eat in Marrakech presents the dishes to try.
The halqas: storytellers, musicians and acrobats
Around the stalls, spectators form circles, the halqas, around Gnaoua musicians, storytellers, troupes of acrobats and singers. It is this oral tradition that earned the square its UNESCO recognition in 2001. If you stay to watch or film, give a coin when the hat goes round. Snake charmers and monkey handlers ask for money as soon as a photo is taken: keep your distance if you do not want to pay.
The crowd is dense: keep your phone and wallet in a front pocket or a closed bag worn in front of you.
Terraces and rooftops at sunset

Before dinner, the custom is to climb up to a roof to watch the sun set behind the Koutoubia, then the square light up. Medina terraces come in two kinds: those that do not serve alcohol, the large majority, and a few licensed venues.
Alcohol-free, in the heart of the souks
- The cafés lining Jemaa el-Fna: their tiered terraces offer the most direct view of the square. Order a mint tea or a juice; arrive half an hour before sunset to get a front-row seat.
- Café des Épices, on Rahba Kedima square: teas, fruit juices and alcohol-free cocktails on a rooftop overlooking the spice market. It closes around 11 pm.
- Nomad, on the same square: modern Moroccan cooking served on several levels of a former carpet shop, without alcohol. Service until 11 pm; book for the terrace at sunset.
With alcohol, in the medina
- Kosybar, Place des Ferblantiers, near El Badi Palace: a wine bar and restaurant on several floors, with a terrace looking out on the storks' nests on the ramparts. It is one of the few places in the medina serving beer, wine and cocktails.
- Le Salama, 40 Rue des Banques, a few steps from Jemaa el-Fna: a restaurant and bar on three floors, with a rooftop open late and a belly-dancing show in the evening.
Whichever you choose, check the menu before sitting down: prices on a terrace with a view are higher than in a neighbourhood café, and bar prices are close to European ones.
Music, stories and monuments at night
The medina also offers quieter evenings, away from the touts.
- Concerts at the Mouassine Museum: several evenings a week, early in the evening, musicians play Arab-Andalusian, Amazigh or Gnaoua music in the douiria, the guest apartment of a 16th-century house. Seats are limited: see the Mouassine Museum page for the schedule and booking.
- Storytelling at Café Clock, 224 Derb Chtouka, in the Kasbah: every Thursday at 7 pm, apprentice storytellers trained by master Ahmed Ezzarghani tell traditional tales in English and Darija. Entry is free; ordering something is the least you can do.
- The Koutoubia lit up: the 77-metre minaret is floodlit in the evening, and its gardens are open to all. A ten-minute walk from Jemaa el-Fna, perfect after dinner. See the Koutoubia Mosque page.
In July, the National Festival of Popular Arts holds its evening shows in the ruins of El Badi Palace: if your dates fall during the festival, it is the best night out in town.
Dinner shows

In Marrakech, shows are mostly enjoyed at the dinner table. Three formulas stand out, from the most folkloric to the most festive.
Chez Ali, fantasia in the Palmeraie
Located on the Route de Casablanca, at the edge of the Palmeraie, Chez Ali is a vast complex of caidal tents around an arena. The Moroccan dinner comes with musicians and folk troupes from different regions; around 10:30 pm the arena show begins: fantasia riders (tbourida, inscribed by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage in 2021), belly dancing, acrobatics and fireworks. Doors open at 8 pm, every evening. In October 2026, packages sold online ranged from about €40 to €60 per person depending on the menu, drinks not included, usually with a return transfer from your hotel. It is a very touristy evening, best taken as a big group show, and children especially love it.
Comptoir Darna, Hivernage's oriental night
Opened in 1999 on Avenue Echouhada in Hivernage, Comptoir Darna combines a Moroccan restaurant, belly dancers, Gnaoua musicians and a DJ. The restaurant opens every evening from 7 pm to 1 am, the show starts around 10:30 pm and the patio turns into a club until 3 am. The venue quotes an average spend of 600 to 900 MAD per person, with no separate ticket for the show. Smart dress is required: no shorts, flip-flops, sandals for men or sportswear. In high season, book several days ahead.
An evening in the Agafay desert
About 40 km southwest of the city, the camps of the Agafay desert offer sunset, dinner under canvas and music around the fire, sometimes with a camel or quad ride. Evening packages sell for about 250 to 600 MAD per person, transfer sometimes included. Bring a jacket: nights are cool for much of the year.
Bars and clubs: Gueliz and Hivernage
Outside the medina, nightlife is concentrated in the new town. In Gueliz, the terraces of Avenue Mohammed V and the surrounding streets stay lively in the evening, and several restaurants serve alcohol. Hivernage is the district of hotels, lounges and nightclubs. Our guide to Gueliz and Hivernage covers both districts in detail.
- Theatro, Rue Ibrahim El Mazini, in the Es Saadi complex next to the Casino de Marrakech: the city's best-known nightclub, laid out like a theatre with a stage and balconies. It mostly fills up after midnight.
- Grand hotel bars: La Mamounia, Avenue Bab Jdid, has four bars, including the Churchill and the Majorelle bar; several large hotels in Hivernage also have a bar or lounge that welcomes outside guests. Smart dress expected, with prices comparable to a European hotel bar.
Clubs often charge entry or a minimum spend on event nights and are selective at the door: dress for a night out and, in a group, book a table.
Alcohol and Ramadan: the rules to know
Alcohol is legal in Morocco for non-Muslims, but it is only served in licensed venues: hotels, bars, some restaurants in Gueliz and Hivernage, and a handful of places in the medina. Drinking in the street or on a terrace overlooking a public space is frowned upon and can get you into trouble. Supermarkets in the new town sell alcohol to take away in a separate section.
During Ramadan, the evening atmosphere changes completely. After the fast is broken, the city comes alive late, families go out and Jemaa el-Fna is very busy. Alcohol sales, however, are heavily restricted: many bars close for the month, supermarket sections shut, and only some hotels keep serving their guests. In 2027, Ramadan is expected to begin around 8 February and last until about 9 March. The dates and their effect on your trip are covered in our guide to the best time to visit Marrakech.
Getting back safely
Marrakech is easy to get around in the evening, provided you take a few precautions.
- Taxis: the beige petits taxis must use the meter; at night, a legal 50% surcharge applies, and it is the only supplement allowed. If the driver refuses the meter, agree on the price before getting in or take the next one. Details in our guide to getting around Marrakech.
- Riads deep in the derbs: taxis cannot drive into the medina's alleys. Note a landmark close to your riad (a gate, a mosque, a square) and, if the alley is dark, ask the riad to send someone to meet you there.
- Fake guides: in the evening, young men offer to "show you the way" and then ask for money. Decline politely and use an offline map.
- Women travelling alone: stick to busy streets and take a taxi back if your accommodation is isolated.
- Emergencies: police on 19 (112 from a mobile); the tourist police have an office on Jemaa el-Fna square.
Other traps, from the over-insistent stall to the taxi without a meter, are covered in our guide to scams to avoid in Marrakech.
At a glance: which evening to choose
| Evening | District | Alcohol | Indicative budget | Good to know |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jemaa el-Fna stalls and halqas | Medina | No | 40 to 80 MAD a meal | Check the price of each dish |
| Café terrace on the square | Medina | No | Price of a tea or juice | Arrive before sunset |
| Café des Épices, Nomad | Medina, Rahba Kedima | No | Mid-range | Close around 11 pm |
| Kosybar, Le Salama | Medina | Yes | Mid-range to high | Rare bars in the medina |
| Café Clock storytelling | Kasbah | No | Free | Thursday at 7 pm |
| Chez Ali | Palmeraie | Depends on package | About €40 to €60 | Transfer often included |
| Comptoir Darna | Hivernage | Yes | 600 to 900 MAD | Show around 10:30 pm, smart dress |
| Agafay desert camp | 40 km southwest | Depends on camp | 250 to 600 MAD | Bring a jacket |
| Theatro and hotel bars | Hivernage | Yes | High | Busiest after midnight |
Prices as of October 2026.
Further reading
For a first evening, combine sunset on a terrace, dinner at the Jemaa el-Fna stalls and a stroll to the floodlit Koutoubia; keep the dinner show or a night at a club for another evening. To choose accommodation that is easy to get back to, read our guide on where to stay in Marrakech, and to plan the rest of your stay, our Marrakech in 3 days itinerary.








